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http://www.protennis.us/US%20Open%20...20Analysis.pdf stringing by pros
2010 us open stats: Wow! Serious piece, for those who want to know what the pros are up to. This is the most complete article I've ever seen re: pro string/frames, etc. The only things it does not deal with are: stringing methods, proportional string jobs (Davydenko), total mass, swing wts., bal pts. Also does not list top players who privately string such as Djokovic, Murray, Fed, Soderling, Tsonga, etc.
The author of this article, Jeff Davies, lives in Orlando, FL, USA and was
Director of Player Services and manager of Luxilon’s professional event stringing service
until Wilson took over global distribution of Luxilon strings in 2006.
He continues to manage the Luxilon.com web site and answers
String and Stringing questions on the site.
Please note that this article is copyright (2010) by Jeff Davies
and may not be reproduced in full or in part without written consent.
Normal excerpts may be quoted by recognized media outlets
with appropriate credit.
Here is an article on how to string polys, and other strings, for best effect: http://ggtennis.wordpress.com/
"Power is actually barely changed whether strung at 60, 45 or 30 pounds. What changes is "Ball trajectory", meaning a lower strung racquet will have the ball rebound off your racquet at a higher angle, more likely to go long (hence why people have always considered it "more power").
So, the point that this article draws upon is that POLY strings, being as stiff as they are, when strung at lower tensions like 45, do not result in the same "trajectory change" that softer synthetic gut, nat gut, and/or multifilament strings would experience at the same low tensions."
Jaycee stringing method:
Poly stringing question for JayCee
JayCee, I've had a couple posts where people replied about the stringing method they refer to as "JC's Method." The following was taken out of a recent post that I started:
"The method I use for two-piece jobs, which on the board we call JC's method, is to increase the tension in the crosses by 4lbs compared to the mains. In addition, pull the outer two mains at +8lbs, and then push down on them firmly from the outside mains to the inside mains to equalize the tension after tying off. You do the same for the crosses. The logic of this method is not based on string constructions, but rather the fact that the crosses always have a lower tension than the mains, so it is equally applicable to a two piece job with one kind of string."
My question is, when stringing a Poly string for my mains, do I follow this same method of increasing the last two mains by 8 lbs.? Reason I'm questioning this is because with Poly strings, the norm is to decrease tension by 10%. I'm not sure whether I should still follow this method. I'm probably missing the whole point, but if you can explain this a little more to me, I'd appreciate it.
Also, in the above quote, "You do the same for the crosses." Does this mean that I should also increase the tension by 8 lbs. when doing the last two crosses? Or is this referring to the "and then push down on them firmly from the outside" (crosses) "to the inside" (crosses) "to equalize the tension after tying off."
Please help?
I'll chime in since I think it's me you quoted above.
As for polyester strings, yes you still increase by 8lbs on the outside two mains, but you may want to lower the overall tension that you would use with something like a synthetic gut. For example, if you're used to playing with a one piece job of syn gut at 60lbs, you may want to string using J.C.'s method by dropping the mains to 56lbs, then increase to 64lbs for the outside two. Then you would string at 60lbs for the crosses, and pull at 64 lbs for the 3 crosses before tying off (last 3 at +4lbs instead of 2 at +8lbs because 68lbs may be a bit high).
I'm sure J.C. will add his corrections or sanctions below
Cheers,
JayCee
@ Erich,
Spot on, I agree with everything written here.
@ Axbige,
Erik, for the crosses I don't think that you can equalise the tension on the strings, only increase the tension on the last 2 (or 3) crosses before tying off.
@Moos,
Sam, on an average we can measure the drop in tension on the last 2 main strings before the knot as being a total of between 15 and 20lbs if we don't increase the tension on the pulls for each of these strings before tying off. So that this drop in tension doesn't lead to a progressive loss of tension over the other mains (the slack will slowly migrate towards the center of the stringbed during the first couple of hours of play) we can compensate this tension loss by overtensionning the last string. As it is far to high to add about 16lbs to one string, you can spread it out over 2 Strings at +8lbs each, or as Eric has explained for the crosses it is better to spread it over the 3 last strings with +4 or +5lbs on each string. (For the crosses it's even worse, losses of 20 to 25lbs are frequent, the distance between the last cross and the eyelet where you tie off can be quite long, the further away the knot, the bigger the drop in tension. This distance should be minimised).
When compared to traditional stringing methods, you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet, you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs. Therefore for a 16 amin string racquet, you have added an average of 2lbs per string. It is therefore necessary to lower the tension on the mains by 2lbs if you want to increase the tension by 8lbs on the last 2 pulls on each side. So what difference does this make to your string job?
All you are doing is stabilizing the tension on the mains so that you don't suffer from the usual characteristic of the stringbed being too hard for the first hour of play, quite good for the next hour, then with the usual drop in tension, too soft and too difficult to control the ball for the following hours of play. We try to get it to be good as of the first 10 minutes, and stay good for about 4 to 5 hours of play.
Generally this result is obtained to a very satisfactory level, it also depends largely on the type of strings udes. A poly/multi hybrid seems to give the best results
Hope this makes sense mate.
Cheers,
JC
__________________
Strive to become a better stringer, be proud of your work and stringing can become a craft, and you a craftsman.
Thanks, I really appreciate all the info.
When compared to traditional stringing methods, you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet, you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs. Therefore for a 16 amin string racquet, you have added an average of 2lbs per string. It is therefore necessary to lower the tension on the mains by 2lbs if you want to increase the tension by 8lbs on the last 2 pulls on each side.
jaycee,
please clear this up for me. when you say the "add 8lbs to the last two strings" on the cross, do you mean last 2 strings per side of the main (making it 4 strings on the main totalled)? or, do you mean just one string on the left side and one string on the right side of the main. i'm asking of the mains only, no crosses.
thank you.
"you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet"
Unquote
Your question :
"do you mean last 2 strings per side of the main (making it 4 strings on the main totalled)? "
Quote :
"you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs." ( a pull = tensioning a string)
Unquote
Your problem :
"please clear this up for me "
My problem :
"What needs to be cleared up?"
It appears to me that you are writing the questions and the answers are already there, but then to ask :
"or, do you mean just one string on the left side and one string on the right side of the main (?)"
My question to you is :
"how would you come to such a conclusion after reading the text that I wrote?"
It beats me mate.
2010 us open stats: Wow! Serious piece, for those who want to know what the pros are up to. This is the most complete article I've ever seen re: pro string/frames, etc. The only things it does not deal with are: stringing methods, proportional string jobs (Davydenko), total mass, swing wts., bal pts. Also does not list top players who privately string such as Djokovic, Murray, Fed, Soderling, Tsonga, etc.
The author of this article, Jeff Davies, lives in Orlando, FL, USA and was
Director of Player Services and manager of Luxilon’s professional event stringing service
until Wilson took over global distribution of Luxilon strings in 2006.
He continues to manage the Luxilon.com web site and answers
String and Stringing questions on the site.
Please note that this article is copyright (2010) by Jeff Davies
and may not be reproduced in full or in part without written consent.
Normal excerpts may be quoted by recognized media outlets
with appropriate credit.
Here is an article on how to string polys, and other strings, for best effect: http://ggtennis.wordpress.com/
"Power is actually barely changed whether strung at 60, 45 or 30 pounds. What changes is "Ball trajectory", meaning a lower strung racquet will have the ball rebound off your racquet at a higher angle, more likely to go long (hence why people have always considered it "more power").
So, the point that this article draws upon is that POLY strings, being as stiff as they are, when strung at lower tensions like 45, do not result in the same "trajectory change" that softer synthetic gut, nat gut, and/or multifilament strings would experience at the same low tensions."
Jaycee stringing method:
Poly stringing question for JayCee
JayCee, I've had a couple posts where people replied about the stringing method they refer to as "JC's Method." The following was taken out of a recent post that I started:
"The method I use for two-piece jobs, which on the board we call JC's method, is to increase the tension in the crosses by 4lbs compared to the mains. In addition, pull the outer two mains at +8lbs, and then push down on them firmly from the outside mains to the inside mains to equalize the tension after tying off. You do the same for the crosses. The logic of this method is not based on string constructions, but rather the fact that the crosses always have a lower tension than the mains, so it is equally applicable to a two piece job with one kind of string."
My question is, when stringing a Poly string for my mains, do I follow this same method of increasing the last two mains by 8 lbs.? Reason I'm questioning this is because with Poly strings, the norm is to decrease tension by 10%. I'm not sure whether I should still follow this method. I'm probably missing the whole point, but if you can explain this a little more to me, I'd appreciate it.
Also, in the above quote, "You do the same for the crosses." Does this mean that I should also increase the tension by 8 lbs. when doing the last two crosses? Or is this referring to the "and then push down on them firmly from the outside" (crosses) "to the inside" (crosses) "to equalize the tension after tying off."
Please help?
I'll chime in since I think it's me you quoted above.
As for polyester strings, yes you still increase by 8lbs on the outside two mains, but you may want to lower the overall tension that you would use with something like a synthetic gut. For example, if you're used to playing with a one piece job of syn gut at 60lbs, you may want to string using J.C.'s method by dropping the mains to 56lbs, then increase to 64lbs for the outside two. Then you would string at 60lbs for the crosses, and pull at 64 lbs for the 3 crosses before tying off (last 3 at +4lbs instead of 2 at +8lbs because 68lbs may be a bit high).
I'm sure J.C. will add his corrections or sanctions below
Cheers,
JayCee
@ Erich,
Spot on, I agree with everything written here.
@ Axbige,
Erik, for the crosses I don't think that you can equalise the tension on the strings, only increase the tension on the last 2 (or 3) crosses before tying off.
@Moos,
Sam, on an average we can measure the drop in tension on the last 2 main strings before the knot as being a total of between 15 and 20lbs if we don't increase the tension on the pulls for each of these strings before tying off. So that this drop in tension doesn't lead to a progressive loss of tension over the other mains (the slack will slowly migrate towards the center of the stringbed during the first couple of hours of play) we can compensate this tension loss by overtensionning the last string. As it is far to high to add about 16lbs to one string, you can spread it out over 2 Strings at +8lbs each, or as Eric has explained for the crosses it is better to spread it over the 3 last strings with +4 or +5lbs on each string. (For the crosses it's even worse, losses of 20 to 25lbs are frequent, the distance between the last cross and the eyelet where you tie off can be quite long, the further away the knot, the bigger the drop in tension. This distance should be minimised).
When compared to traditional stringing methods, you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet, you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs. Therefore for a 16 amin string racquet, you have added an average of 2lbs per string. It is therefore necessary to lower the tension on the mains by 2lbs if you want to increase the tension by 8lbs on the last 2 pulls on each side. So what difference does this make to your string job?
All you are doing is stabilizing the tension on the mains so that you don't suffer from the usual characteristic of the stringbed being too hard for the first hour of play, quite good for the next hour, then with the usual drop in tension, too soft and too difficult to control the ball for the following hours of play. We try to get it to be good as of the first 10 minutes, and stay good for about 4 to 5 hours of play.
Generally this result is obtained to a very satisfactory level, it also depends largely on the type of strings udes. A poly/multi hybrid seems to give the best results
Hope this makes sense mate.
Cheers,
JC
__________________
Strive to become a better stringer, be proud of your work and stringing can become a craft, and you a craftsman.
Thanks, I really appreciate all the info.
When compared to traditional stringing methods, you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet, you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs. Therefore for a 16 amin string racquet, you have added an average of 2lbs per string. It is therefore necessary to lower the tension on the mains by 2lbs if you want to increase the tension by 8lbs on the last 2 pulls on each side.
jaycee,
please clear this up for me. when you say the "add 8lbs to the last two strings" on the cross, do you mean last 2 strings per side of the main (making it 4 strings on the main totalled)? or, do you mean just one string on the left side and one string on the right side of the main. i'm asking of the mains only, no crosses.
thank you.
"you must be aware that by adding 8lbs to the last 2 mains on each side of the racquet"
Unquote
Your question :
"do you mean last 2 strings per side of the main (making it 4 strings on the main totalled)? "
Quote :
"you are infact putting on an additional tension of 4 pulls at 8lbs = 32lbs." ( a pull = tensioning a string)
Unquote
Your problem :
"please clear this up for me "
My problem :
"What needs to be cleared up?"
It appears to me that you are writing the questions and the answers are already there, but then to ask :
"or, do you mean just one string on the left side and one string on the right side of the main (?)"
My question to you is :
"how would you come to such a conclusion after reading the text that I wrote?"
It beats me mate.
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